First, I must apologize for the lack of correspondence. I realized it had been 3 weeks since my last entry, and I’m definitely due for another, so here it is. You may want to print this one out and keep it on your night table as a week’s worth of bedtime reading!
Week 4
Fri, Oct 3rd
Off to Bobo (Burkina’s second largest town, about 5 hours away) for the weekend today! Super pumped because I get to visit some friends I made during my travels here and see the progress on their rice processing plant construction.
Took the bus down which was a very comfortable ride. Comfy seats, TV movies, AC and all. We got to the station at 1h55 and although they could fit the two of us (Charlotte and I) on the bus, they couldn’t fit my moto, which I was bringing down with us for easy travel when we arrived. So we waited for the
If sleeping was your initial goal for the bus ride, you were mistaken. They blare not only the AC but the volume on the movies they play, which are always a confusing humour. They always involve some kind of romance, but an awkward high school type romance. I could seldom determine what is going on with all the subplots happening, but it’s as entertaining to watch the locals watching the movie because they get really into it.
By the end of the 5 hour ride both Charlotte and I were getting cold under the AC. Charlotte: “Do you want a sweater, I’ve got one if you’re cold”. Me: “Ya, I’ve got a scarf in my bag, but we’re the only non-Africans on this bus, we can’t be the only ones to pull out a sweater; we’re Canadian, we’ve got to tough it out”. She agreed, so we sat, a little chilled for the last hour until we escaped into the heat wave of the outside world.
Sevrine and her family were kind enough to let us stay over their place that night. We got there a bit late and by
Weekend
Today we were off to Banfora, a town about 1.5hrs from Bobo where there are some scenic must-see falls. Sevrine has her version of Alassane, a taxi man that she uses daily and so we negotiated with him to take us for the day. Negotiating a price with him though was one of the most frustrating things in the world. He would tell us a price, we’d suggest another, hoping to find some sort of happy medium, and he would just sit there and not talk. Then would say “lets just go”. But we insisted on negotiating before we left (so that there weren’t any unwanted surprises). After a solid 20min of a lack of negotiating, we told him a price and were off.
The ride there was beautiful. Bobo gets a lot more rain then Ouaga, so there is a lot more greenery to enjoy. Once arrived in Banfora, I called ‘Mohammed le Magnifique’, a guide that I had contacted earlier to take us around and show us the falls (which was very worthwhile since the falls are in the boonies and through unmarked territory). Pretty sure the only way you’d be able to find it on your own would be by flying a plane overhead.
The guide was really good, knew the area and although didn’t speak much, could answer any questions we had about the random plants or bugs we found on the ground. He was very young though, I’d pin him at 17yrs old.
The walk to the falls (from the ‘parking lot’) was even more beautiful. I felt like I was in Lord of the Rings, tall luscious trees growing on either side of a dirt path shading us from the burning sun. All along too were termite houses which were tall sand-castle looking structures that stood over 5 feet tall. The falls were just as amazing. We climbed up a rock side and went to the top of the falls and continued to follow the river upstream to a series of other falls further up. We stopped at one of them for a ‘African Message’ as our guide put it. After our swim, we continued upstream and through a path to the Domes, a series of naturally carved ‘bumps’ rising hundreds of metres in the air. Unfortunately though it was getting late and we wanted to be back before dark, so we didn’t have a chance to walk down to them and check out the view from above. We merely saw them from a distance, but the landscape below was incredible. I’m definitely planning on going back and hopefully spending a full day at the falls and checking out the area.
Coming back to Bobo, we were heading to Bama, another 30min away where the gang of engineering students I traveled here with are staying. It was so great to see them. They live in a small villa, 3 houses with 2 bedrooms, a living space and a shower room in each (they are 6 in all). They set it up so that each ‘living space’ serves as a different purpose (a living room, another a kitchen and the last an office). Outside in the court is a water pump (where they get their water to do laundry, dishes, and bathe) and a series of hole toilets. It was actually my first experience of hole toilets in
A few of us stayed up late that night talking. But sleeping that night was another story. By
After breakfast, Simon took myself and Charlotte to the market, which is a 1min walk from their house. It was a nice change from the big city market. Instead of harassing us to buy things, people would say hi. It was a very pleasant change. And I’m sure if I were to buy something that I wouldn’t pay the ‘nasara (white) price’ for it either. The more remote you get, the more honest people seem to be. They live in a small village and are the only white people there, so they are well known.
We decided to head into town to go out to a restaurant that had a pool, so we boarded a ‘bush taxi’ to head to town. That was quite an experience. The taxi has 8 seats, but how many Africans do you think we could fit in a small car? Seventeen! Yep, there were 17 people inside the car, plus at least 2 on the roof of the car (I only saw the 2 people who kept hoping off the roof to push start the car every time we stopped), but who knows how many more people were up there. Plus not to mention the I don’t know how many hundreds of kilos of bagged rice that were on the roof of the car (which at least doubled the height of the vehicle). The 30min ride out of town ended up being over 1.5hrs long. With the initial rice loading delay, the random taxi break down/push starts, the getting pulled over by the police, and the general weight of the load didn’t exactly help the speed. I was really not bothered by it though. I was finding it quite funny and I was happy that we were all together in the car (otherwise I’m sure I would have been frustrated if I was on my way to meet someone).
Unfortunately by the time we got into town, Charlotte and I had to get to the bus station to reserve our seats, so we didn’t get to chill with the crew at the pool. We were both beat for the ride home, but the extremely loud movie/African music playing kind of hindered our napping. Not to mention the relentless honking of the horn. People honk a lot here to tell people to push over to the side of the road when they’re passing, but this driver was honking, no joke, every 1min20sec. He would honk when we were approaching any moving object (car, bike, livestock) when he could see it from far away and continue to honk incessantly until we passed it. But since there are no stretches of road that are free of those three things, the honking was like 5 hours of unnecessary noise.
Approaching the last hour of our ride back to Ouaga, they began playing some classic American/Canadian romance songs. It is so funny what you hear around here in random places. Stuff like Brian Adams, Phil Collins, Mariah Carrey, All for One, the classics. We found it so funny that I wanted to capture the moment with my video camera. But as I didn’t want to pull it out and make a scene, I tried to be subtle and hide it under my scarf and point it up to us, where we could sing along. It wasn’t very successful, but none the less, the videos (although not much visually) nicely captured the audio, which was the inspiration to start filming in the first place.
We made it back safely, but the sun was going down, and as we want to avoid night travel (due to random road blocks by thieves) we were pretty antsy when the bus pulled over and the driver got out (and we couldn’t see anything outside that was going on). Luckily though, there was a lady with her baby 2 seats ahead of us who had a large shot gun under her seat. So although that would make most people feel uncomfortable, it kind of made us feel more secure haha.
Randoms of the Week
-Budgets have been a large topic of conversation amongst the cooperatives lately. The just of it is that living costs have rose so much in recent years (and even months) that the living allocations have not seemed to suffice for living here. This has not only been a problem for Burkina, but many African countries, where food prices are soaring and wages are not. There has been a lot of discussion and the volunteers have even put in an official claim to try to get our salaries raised as our allocations are based on a price analysis done in 2005. To give you an example, the price of a bag of rice 3 months ago was 11,000f ($27.50). Today it’s 20,000f ($50). And with the economic situation in the world today, the Canadian dollar has continued to fall against the franc (the franc is pinned to the Euro, so when the Euro gains so does the franc, and thus the Canadian dollar falls in comparison). When I got here, I could get 460f for $1, today I can get 398f. Therefore my purchasing power in the past 1.5 months has decreased by 15%.
-Some of you may be interested in seeing what my day consists of, so here is a typical day in my life:
water, do stuff around the house
morning I’m with the partner organization in a different town)
watch a movie…
I go out at night (for a drink at the maquis or out for dinner with friends) I’d say about 2 times a week.
During weekends my mornings and afternoons consist of running errands, going to the market, catching up on last week’s unfinished work, going to the pool, and visiting friends
And voila, my day!
-Now, some of you I’m sure are worried about whether or not I am eating well, and you don’t have to worry at all, because I am eating super and just as much (if not more) then I eat when I’m in Canada. In fact I eat way more desert here as my sweet tooth seems to have evolved since my arrival. We have a super good cook who is here 4 days a week who makes us European/Canadian food and the other 3 days either (usually) myself or Benoit cooks. Here is an idea of what I usually eat:
Breakfast: toast, cereal, fruits, crepes, omelets, oatmeal
Lunch: rice/couscous with sauce, ragout, meat and potatoes, salad, tabulah,bread
Dinner: pasta, meat (usually beef), soup, bread, leftover lunch
Desert: there is always a cake or fruit loaf on the table to finish off your meal
Drink: litres of H2O
Week 5:
Mon-Tue, Oct 6-7th
The excitement of the weekend was over and it was back to work. I was super tired, so didn’t do too much except try to function at work and later recover from my lack of sleep.
Wed-Fri, Oct 8-10th
Wednesday to Friday was our organization’s annual sectoral meetings. Essentially all the partners of the organization with all the volunteers were invited to share their projects and results with the rest. It was a long week but none the less interesting to hear about their work as well as get a better understanding of how each volunteer is contributing.
The biggest highlight of these days was that nearly everyone was down from their towns for the 3 day conference, including Charlotte and 2 (Simon and Karine) of the engineers from Bama that I had just hung out with a few days earlier.
Thursday night we took a bunch of them to the local maquis (outdoor bar) that we really like, which has cheap food and classic tunes (a random mix of music from Akon to the Village People). All together we had sheep, beef kabobs, bread, beer and fanta for 1,000f each (about $2.50). I love cheap meals!
Saturday everyone was leaving, so we took the group out Friday night to the restaurant ‘Gigot a la ficelle’ (which I had not yet tried myself). The restaurant’s servers glide around on roller blades while you eat your meal and enjoy random acrobatic and musical performances. The name of the restaurant is that of their signature dish, ‘gigot’ which is the thigh. And ‘a la ficelle’ represents the cooking method; the thigh is hung on a string and cooked over an open flame. At
Weekend
By
After lunch Anne and I went to the large market to check out some pagnes (the traditional colourful African fabric that people get clothing made out of). I saw a beautiful pagne and tried to bargain the price, unsuccessfully, so I left empty handed. But I will eventually get one and get myself an outfit made (everyone here buys fabrics and gets tailors to make them clothing).
That afternoon we all played Settlers of Catane, a German game where you try to gain points by building up villages and trading resources (such as wood, clay and sheep).
That night I was looking forward to calling the family as everyone would be over matante Celines and mononcle Daniel’s house for Thanksigivng dinner. Chantal answered the phone and was super surprised to hear me. It was funny. My parents knew I was going to try to call, but hadn’t told them, which was a good way to surprise them. It was nice to talk to all of them and hear the random voices in the background. It’s unfortunate that I can’t call more often, and individually to each of my relatives, but the cost of calling from here is ridiculous. Just to give you an idea, calling locally costs me 62c per minute, so imagine long distance! Even with an international calling card, it’s not much cheaper. So I apologize in advance to all of you who I’d love to call and talk to, and find out what you’ve all been up to, but the costs is just too much, so emailing is the best way to get a hold of me and keep me posted on life. This blog is I think a great way to keep you all informed on what I’ve been up to. And although these entries are really long, I’ve decided to keep them as such as I know some of you appreciate the detail.
Sunday I spent most of the day in my pjs which was nice. That night we had our makeshift thanksgiving dinner. A small chicken (which came with the head and feet still attached), attempted stuffing (which was more like soggy, seasoned bread, but tasted just the same) and mashed potatoes. It was really good. After dinner, I tried calling the other side of the family at matante Marianne’s cottage for the Rodrigue Thanksgiving dinner, but numerous failed attempts made it unsuccessful.
The rest of the night was pretty low key. Anne and I watched a
Randoms of the Week
-learned the other day that the guard across the street (who Benoit often goes to chill and have a drink with) wants to marry me. I’ve been considering more lately whether I should start wearing a ring on my wedding finger to get people off my back (more so just to prevent guys who only come and talk to me because they want a relationship with a foreigner) from doing so if that’s their intention. We had a good laugh about it that night and Benoit concluded that I need a tall boyfriend because he says that I’m a giant. Pretty sure he’s 5’7 (I’m 5’8), but it was funny that he associates me with being a giant haha.
-had a super delicious salad this week at the conference. Best salad I think I have ever eaten, or maybe had in a while, so it was that much more amazing. It had lettuce, papaya, avocado, grapefruit and a cream dressing, yum!
Week 6
Mon, Oct 13th
Back to school today. I have to say that the kids are pretty violent here. They are constantly hitting each other, and my attempts to hold them to calm them down and make it clear that it is not acceptable goes in vain as they pitch a fit and flail their arms relentlessly for 10min until I let them go. I could always resort to smacking them in the head, which I have seen some of the teachers do, but I can’t bring my hand to make that motion, so for now I’ll stick to my method and hope it’ll result in some positive change.
Tue, Oct 14th
Today I decided to start some serious thesis research. I’ve been toying with a lot of ideas lately so took today to find some articles online and save them onto my computer so that I can solidify a topic.
The last of my organization’s volunteers for the year arrived today. It is a family from
Tonight was the start of ‘Waga HipHop’, Burkina’s hip hop festival, which I had been looking forward to checking out. But none of my Burkinabe friends wanted to go, and they all laughed at me when I said I wanted to check it out. I guess my only gangsta friends will always remain in
Overall I was loving the concert. It was 4 hours long, but I felt totally in my element. People in the audience were really into it too and some were even brraaaappping (for my family who might not get that, its when you raise your hand in the air like a gun and say ‘brappp’), something done in gangster places like
Wed, Oct 15th
Today I wanted to call Grandma and Grandpa Rodrigue as I hadn’t been able to reach the Rodrigue family for thanksgiving. And although I couldn’t call everyone from that side (it was a bummer I couldn’t reach them when they were all together), I at least wanted to say hi to the grandparents and see how they were doing. So I decided to test out Skype and bought $14 of credit, which I think is going to last me quite a while. I called my grandma and after a second attempt (grandpa couldn’t hear me the first time, so I had to call back), my grandma was surprised to hear my voice. It was surprisingly very clear and a lot cheaper then calling cards.
I was so excited with the success and cheapness of my call that I wanted to call someone else, so I called my mom at work. She was obviously very surprised to hear me on the other end of the line and it was nice to talk to her. But unfortunately as my dad is never in one place for long, I didn’t reach him in his office, so I spoke to my mom for a while and continued with my day.
Although Skype made my day, it is only convenient during a few hours of the day as it is the only time the office is open and I have access to the net. Otherwise I could use it at the internet café at a more convenient time, but they always have a ‘hush hush’ policy so I’m not sure I want to tread those waters just yet and try my luck being the only one speaking out loud over my computer. A lot of people at cyber cafes use web cams, but merely for the visual. They look through the camera and type at the same time.
That night I also called Ange. But it took me 4 attempts until she figured out that the delay was not a telemarketer but a legitimate delay from calling from another continent haha. It was great to talk to her. She’s my best friend and we used to talk and email each other about 20 times a day at school, so it was good to hear her voice over the phone. She has been back in
Today was full of communication. Lastly I got to talk to Eric a bunch on msn who was in
Thur, Oct 16th
Today was full of good news too. Why you ask. Because a Halloween party in Bobo was confirmed and as it is my favourite holiday and I am super stoked for it!!! We would of made one here in Ouaga, but I’m very happy it’s in Bobo since the engineering gang works 6 days a week and wouldn’t be able to make the trip to Ouaga to join the party. But seeing as though it is in their hood, they will definitely be able to come out.
That night, it was Anne and Benoit’s anniversary. They have been together 10 years, so they went out for dinner together. I went to another Waga HipHop event and saw the movie ‘Steppin’ which is actually a movie I wanted to see in
Fri, Oct 17th
Tonight was the last night of Waga HipHop. So Anne, Benoit and myself went to check out the last of the movie showcase which turned out to be ‘You Got Served’ in French. I nearly died laughing. This is a movie I have seen a bunch of times at university with my friends merely to mock the ridiculousness of it, especially the classic quotes we have extracted from it such as ‘fo sho fo sho’ and ‘no matter what happens in this battle, what’s important is that in the end we all be friends’. Classic! Although the French version wasn’t as funny, I was reminiscing the good times of watching and mocking the English version with friends and it made me happy.
After the movie, we were off to the restaurant ‘Chez Simon’ for the new volunteer family’s ‘welcome dinner’. During the dinner, Angele (the regional coordinator for my organization) was finding it quite funny of my life advice, which we later coined ‘Tiana’s guide, tips and tricks on how to survive’. We figured that these survival mechanisms had developed through my years on residence and it was suggested that I should give workshops on ‘how to survive Burkina’. The following were the reasons for this discussion:
Tip #1: Drink fast to avoid infected ice cubes from melting. This came about as
Charlotte (who came down for the weekend) got a fanta with a glass of ice on the side. She asked the waiter if the ice was safe to drink (as you should avoid restaurant ice cubes because they are often made from tap water which is the best way to inhale a virus). Angele said that it was ‘Chez Simon’ and that they have good standards. But I suggested that as long as you drank fast enough, the ice wouldn’t have time to melt and it would be safe, a comment for which Angele nearly died lauhing.
Tip #2: To prolong the life and freshness of your foods, put them in the freezer.
This has been a habbit of mine that has faced much ridicule and commenting from my friends even in university, but it works! To give one solid example, I had brought corn nuts from
Tip #3: Combine foods to create new things. I didn’t think that this was rocket science, but my friends here were just as amazed as Ange was in
Stay tuned for more survival tips as they come up!
Weekend
This weekend was fabric shopping for our Halloween costumes. So Charlotte, Anne and myself checked out the local market, downtown shops and even the ‘pagne cemetary’ which a guy led us to through a dark alley (Charlotte was like ‘Tiana, don’t follow him in there, where is he taking u?) haha. But don’t worry, I could see the other side, so I knew it was safe. In the end, Anne found some fabrics for her and Benoit’s costumes (they are going to get Kimonos made), but I was less lucky in my search.
As it was super hot and we were all feeling a little out of it (3 of us weren’t feeling so hot, so we thought maybe it was last night’s restaurant, but we all ate different things, so couldn’t pin point why we were all feeling crappy).
After a quick lunch, we headed to the American Embassy where we spent the afternoon swimming to relieve our bodies from the heat and drank delicious lemonade.
That night
Randoms of the Week
-I have adapted fairly well to the things I see on a daily basis. Things such as the town crazy. Well I don’t know if he really is a town crazy, but more like a town nude. There’s this one guy who is always walking around naked through the busy streets. Seeing him and others do the same doesn’t phase me. The lack of hygiene at the school (which is also common in the streets) has also become ‘just another thing’. For example, although we have hole toilets in the yard, kids who need to urinate just pull out their willies or squat wherever they are standing (even if it is inches from us or another kid) and pee in place. Then since the kids are mostly walking around barefoot, they are stepping in the wet puddles and wouldn’t know the difference. Not to mention that there is no hand washing going on (except for before they eat their snack). I must say though that we have been getting the kids to use the designated toilets more often to do their business, so things are getting better. But it is something done by all kids. It is not unusual to come out of my house and see kids squatting across the street doing their business.
Week 7
Mon, Oct 20th
Courses finally started today at the school. They had been waiting for the minister of education to give them some workbooks and the okay to start classes (I don’t really know why they have to really wait), but up to now, the kids were just playing and such for the period of the school day.
So for the next 3 days, I spent one day in each of the 3 classes just observing how the day generally works and the types of lessons and presentations used. Over the three days the classes discussed politeness, the sun’s position in the sky and the concept of ‘on/under’. It wasn’t too intensive to say the least, but it is the first week of classes and some of our kids are as young as 2, so you can’t really expect them to be learning physics just yet.
That afternoon, I rode with Anne to the office as she had just bought herself a used P50, a moped like mine, and since the roads are a bit hectic was a bit afraid to go on her own, so I offered to follow ahead of her. It was funny because she was having a hard time starting her moped and sometimes she’d start it and it would shut off, so she’d have to peddle again to get it going. And at one point we were on the street and our neighbour (a young woman with her baby on her back) ran behind her to help her push start it. It was too funny and I wish I had my camera on me to capture the moment.
Tue, Oct 21st
Today I was pumped to go check out another fabric store (a store that had more than just pagnes, they’re nice and all, but not the look I’m really going for for my Halloween costume). On the way there, I made to take a left turn (as the store was at the left corner) in order to park my moto, but it turns out that that’s a one way street (things are marked here very poorly, so who knew). So of course there was a police standing there and they took my moto and I had to go to the side with them. They were very nice though, I gave them my proof of purchase and passport picture and he said that he’d decrease the 12,000f fine to 6,000f (which is the actual price, I found out later). I didn’t argue with them and paid them out. I didn’t negotiate a decrease in fine either, although I could of. I figured they knew I was going into the fabric store, so I couldn’t really say that I only had 4,000f or something then walk out of the store with a purchase. He even explained to me the best way to slip him the money (put it into my proof of purchase, which he would slide into his pocket to let the money fall in). It’s so obvious, I don’t know why they even bother. A simple handshake transfer would be more subtle. They were nice enough though to offer to watch my bike while I went into the store so that I didn’t have to pay for parking there lol.
The store was like a small version of
That night we went back to the local maquis with some friends to eat sheep. As we were leaving they began to play the Eagles CD. It made me think of my parents J. Oh classic tunes.
After the maquis, Anne and I went to the tailor to put in our Halloween costume orders. Just picture this with me for a second. Halloween is a very North American thing, however some parts of the world appreciate and partake in costume parties of various sorts. Not
Wed, Oct 22nd
Today was not that eventful. Went back to the tailor to confirm what we wanted and give him coloured copies of our costumes (the black and white really wasn’t helping in explaining what we wanted).
That night we started watching the series ‘Heroes’, and watched 4 episodes. I had never gotten into it, but had many people (including my parents) who said it was really good. I had gotten 3 seasons off of our friend Ronnie, so we’re set for a while.
Thur, Oct 23rd
Last night had a terrible sleep. I slept not more than 1-2 hours tops, so I was pretty tired at work. Today I started working on my plan of action, which describes how I plan on implementing the things that are in my mandate.
At the office that afternoon, I met a professor from the
That night I realized that I hadn’t updated my blog in 3 weeks and so I began working on it when I got home.
Fri, Oct 24th
Woot it’s Friday. This week has been particularly long. I think it’s because I cannot wait until next weekend to go to Bobo and for the Halloween celebrations. All of the students my age (8 of them) are leaving in a few months time, so I always like to get together with them when I can, and I’ll be bummed when they leave.
I bought a papaya tree today. Haha. Growing (or attempting to grow) fruit trees in our yard would be sweet if it succeeded. I gave the tree to our gardener (who comes twice a week to make sure our trees don’t die) made me discover many trees I didn’t know we had. I knew we had a mango tree (but when I arrived the season was done, so I’ll have to wait a while before I can enjoy some). We’ll also have a papaya tree and he had planted a banana tree, which he says should produce in 3 months! Things grow super fast here since it’s always sunny. So as long as we water it lots, we’ll be able to start our own fruit market in a few months, or just eat tons more fresh fruits. Yum!
And here is a link to my pictures, loading them on here hasn't been too successful, so this link should work. I post all my pictures on here, so if you check them out, you won't be missing a thing :)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2438058&l=88600&id=28123092
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2448038&l=1273c&id=28123092
Tiana